Source: "‘Wicked’ Costume Designer on How M.C. Escher and Damien Hirst Inspired His Vision of Oz" by Vittoria Benzine, Artnet News, November 22, 2024
https://news.artnet.com/art-world/paul-tazewell-costumes-wicked-broadway-movie-2573903
Main Themes:
- Nature's Influence: Paul Tazewell, the costume designer for the film adaptation of "Wicked," drew heavily on natural forms for inspiration. He referenced the Fibonacci spiral in Glinda's bubble dress and the intricate structures of mushrooms for Elphaba's attire. This connection to nature highlights the characters' inherent qualities—Glinda's airiness and Elphaba's grounded, earthy nature.
- Character Development Through Costume: Tazewell meticulously crafted the costumes to reflect the characters' journeys. Glinda's outfits transition from flamboyant to subtly darker, mirroring her descent from superficial goodness to calculated manipulation. Meanwhile, Elphaba's attire becomes more open and elaborate, signifying her growing confidence and power.
- Symbolism and Detail: The costumes are imbued with symbolism and intricate details that enhance the storytelling. Elphaba's increasingly tall boots represent her growing self-possession, while Nessarose's tornado-shaped heels foreshadow Elphaba's ultimate fate. Even subtle details like Elphaba's spiral pinkie rings add depth and meaning to her character.
Key Facts and Ideas:
- Tazewell's design for Glinda's bubble dress was inspired by the 1939 film and incorporates elements of the Fibonacci spiral, echoing the beauty found in nature.
"His rendition references the Fibonacci spiral, found across shells and flowers."
- Damien Hirst's art, particularly his use of circular forms, influenced the embellishments on Glinda's gown.
- Elphaba's costumes are inspired by mushrooms, reflecting her affinity for nature and her potent, sometimes unpredictable, magic.
"Then I started to think about Elphaba and her connection to nature because of her avocation for animals.”
- The visual contrast between Glinda and Elphaba's costumes diminishes as their friendship develops, signifying their growing connection and shared experiences.
- Tazewell and Erivo collaborated to ensure Elphaba's costumes authentically represent her journey as a woman of color who is often misunderstood.
"I really gravitate to Elphaba’s story,” Tazewell said. “Some of that is because that character is a person of color that is seen incorrectly.”
- M.C. Escher's work influenced Elphaba's final dress, with its intricate, micro-pleated texture designed to resemble the underside of a mushroom.
Quotes:
- "It’s a fantasy world,” Tazewell mused. “That’s the wonderful thing—it’s very open for interpretation.”
- "I really gravitate to Elphaba’s story,” Tazewell said. “Some of that is because that character is a person of color that is seen incorrectly.”
Overall Impression:
Tazewell's costume designs for "Wicked" go beyond mere aesthetics; they are integral to the storytelling, adding layers of meaning and visual metaphors to the characters' journeys. His attention to detail, symbolism, and collaboration with the actors result in costumes that are both visually stunning and deeply meaningful.